Form submitted successfully, thank you.

Error submitting form, please try again.

Film Is Not Dead bio picture

Film is not dead

There's something magical about shooting with film. When you are limited to a certain number of frames you tend to take a deep breath, slow down, and enjoy life around you. I am not a purist but this blog is dedicated to one of my pleasures in life; shooting with a Ciro-Flex TLR.

Update: I now have a large format camera. Although I wont use it as often I will try to share my experience with this camera.

How To: Take a picture with the Crown Graphic

I’ve spent some time on Flickr and YouTube learning how to use the Crown Graphic. I made a list of questions I had and set out to answer them. I get long-winded so I will answer each question in a separate post.

1. How do I use the camera?

2. What kind of film do I need?

3. How do I develop the film?

4. Can I develop the film with the same equipment I use for my medium format film?

The first question turned out to be the easiest to figure out. There are three basic elements to the camera. The front element (where the lens is), the bellows, and the rear element (view screen). The shutter speed, f-stop (aperture), and shutter release are all on the lens. The bellows must be light tight. The best way to test this is to put a flashlight inside the bellows. If you see light leaking out then the bellows need to be fixed. From what I’ve found the corners are usually the first place of wear and tear. The rear element has the ground glass and it is also where you slide the film holder in.

Front of Lens

The first thing you’ll want to do is set the f-stop to 5.6. Then move the black triangle shaped switch to the open position. This will allow the most light into the lens and project an image on the ground glass.

Shutter in open position

Point the camera at your subject, pop open the back and look through the “live” view finder. Most pro’s pay big bucks for this feature. The image will be upside down. I dont find this to be hard to get used to. If anything I find that it helps in composition since you really have to pay attention to what you see.

You will definitely want to have a loupe with you. Place the loupe right on the ground glass and you will be able to adjust the focus. The focus knobs are on the front just under the lens.

And here is the image seen through the loupe.

Through the looking glass

Once you are satisfied with your subject then close the viewing hood and close the shutter. Remember to move the shutter back to the closed position! If you do not do this then you will expose your negative. Dont forget. Close that shutter!

Lens Closed

Shutter in down position

Now its time to put your film holder in. At this point I always double check that the tripod knobs are tight. The last thing you want is to open the film back, slide in the film holder, and have the camera move because you didnt lock it down. Pry open the back and slide the film holder in place. I made the mistake once of not inserting the film holder all the way. Double check that you do! It was very frustrating trying to figure out what went wrong.

Graflex Film Holder

Your almost there! Now its just a matter of removing the film guide and then taking the picture. Notice how the film guide below has a white tab on one side and its black on the other. When I first put film in I insert the guides with the white tabs facing out. This lets me know that the film has not been exposed. Once the film has been exposed I slide the film guide with the black side facing out. Some people do it the other way around. Black means not exposed. White means exposed. Whatever you pick just stay consistent.

Let me go back to something I mentioned earlier. Once you remove the film guide your film is ‘exposed’. There is now nothing between the film and the subject (source of light) except for the shutter blades. This is why its very important to close the shutter blades after you have focused and composed your subject. If you skipped that step then your negative would get exposed as soon as you slide the film guide out.

After all this work we are finally ready to take the picture. The cable release allows you to take a picture without disturbing the camera. There are many kinds of cable releases available. Some are made of cloth, metal, plastic, and they range in length. If you plan on doing long exposures make sure you get a cable release that allows you to lock the shutter in place. This way you dont have to stand there holding it open.

At this point you will also want to meter your subject. I have a spot meter and an incident meter. I could go on explaining what they do but this is getting long enough. I could also talk about getting a proper exposure but there are entire books on just that topic. If you have a question send me an email.

And the last step is to slide the film guide back in. Make sure to turn it around and leave the black side facing out.

If you put two negatives in then you can turn the film back around and take a second shot. I hope I was clear with the whole process. It has been a lot of fun to learn how this camera works. I have yet to play with all the possible settings. Right now I’m just happy if the shot turns out. If you are shooting with a similar camera I would love to see your pictures.

New Camera – Graflex Crown Graphic

The Crown Graphic, by Graflex, is a 4×5 camera that was made between 1947 and 1973. I have no idea what year this model was made. I am just learning how to use it. Once I have it figured out I will write a few posts about it and how it works.
Crown Graphic Closed
Crown GraphicCrown GraphicCrown Graphic Ground Glass

Developing Your Own Film – Part 3 – Having fun with chemistry

You have all your materials. You have your film. Hopefully you’ve been able to get your film onto a reel and into a tank. So now what? On to part three! You are going to need your chemicals, beakers, thermometer, stop watch, and running water. Let me say this again. These are the steps that I follow. This is what works best for me. I do not use a stop bath (water works) and I do not use any spot remover before drying my film. I am on a budget and try to keep things to a minimum.

The first step is to make sure you have your chemicals at the right temperature. To do this I run a mix of hot and cold water in my bathroom sink. I gradually add enough hot water so the temperature is 20 degrees Celsius. If you bought your thermometer at a photo supply store then chances are you have a little arrow pointing at the right mark. Once the temp is right then I prepare the developer. My plastic tank needs 600ml for one 120 reel. I like to use a 1+14 mix of Ilfosol 3. I could use 1+9 but a 1+14 allows me to get the most out of one bottle. Again…saving money! Leave the water running. You will need it for the rest of the process.

The first thing we are going to add is some water. Fill your tank up with water and let it sit for a few minutes. For a roll of 120 I let it sit for about 5 minutes. Once thats done then pour the water out. Dont be surprised if it comes out blue or purple or any other lovely color.

Quickly pour your developer in. You want to make sure that all of the film is developed evenly so you dont want to take your time pouring them in. As soon as that last drop goes in start your timer. You will want to agitate for the first 10 seconds of every minute. While I am waiting for the next minute to roll around I prepare the fixer. Your water should be running and the temperature should still be correct. Measure out your fixer and mix in the correct amount of water. Quickly pour the developer out (down the drain is fine) right before your time is up.

At this point you could use a stop bath. I simply fill the tank up with water, do two inversions, then pour the water out. Do this one more time…fill the tank with water, two inversions, and pour the water out.

If you prepared your fixer while you were developing then you’ll be ready for the next step. Quickly pour the fixer in and repeat the agitation process. The first 10 seconds of every minute. I usually fix for 5 minutes. At this point it is safe to open the tank with the lights on. Do NOT pour the fixer out just yet. I like to take a look at the film. If it still looks really purple then go ahead and keep it in the fixer for another minute. If the film looks good then pour the fixer out. You can reuse fixer so feel free to pour it into a reusable container.

Now its time to wash the film. You want to make sure that all the chemicals are gone. I fill the tank up with water (Again, I leave the water running the whole time and I am constantly checking the temperature) and agitate for 30 seconds every minute. I’ll shake it, dance with it, walk with it…whatever it takes to keep it going for 30 seconds. I then quickly pour the water out, fill it back up, rest for 5 seconds, and keep going for 5 minutes. You should notice that every time you pour the water out the water color should get lighter and lighter until it looks like you are just pouring water out. After 5 minutes I’ll take the top off of the tank and just let it sit under running water for another 15 minutes.

While I am washing the film I like to take a hot shower. This does two things. One, it keeps me clean and washes all the chemicals off of my hands. Two, and the most important in my opinion, it steams up the bathroom. This helps get rid of the dust that might be floating around. You don’t want any of that sticking to your film.

After 15 minutes of washing the film (not in the shower) you can finally take it out and admire your handy work. I use two sturdy clips to hang the film up. One clip at each end. Close the door. Go to bed. Dream of your negatives and the fun things you will do with them.

On Vacation

Hello…I’m on a break from technology. This year has started off slow so I’ll continue my posts in March.

Developing Your Own Film – Part 2 – Getting the Film Onto the Reel

This is probably the hardest part of the whole process and my best recommendation is to practice a few times with a throw away roll. I currently use plastic reels because I find the stainless steel reels more tedious to use. One positive thing about stainless steel reels is that they last a very long time. The plastic reels are so easy to use that I would rather buy new reels every once in a while than deal with stainless steel ones. Once you have your roll of film and the developing tank then its time to head into the dark. That’s right. This whole step must be completed in total darkness. There are a few different ways to do this but this is what I do.

Before I start I lay out all the components used in order from left to right. The reel has a guide on where the film goes through and I place this towards me. The film is next to the reel, then the tank, followed by the light-proof lid. Once I’m in complete darkness I remove the seal around the film and start to roll away the paper backing. Once I find the actual film I carefully place it onto the reel and pull it through for about an inch (past the ball bearings). Once this is done you can slowly start to twist the reel. After every few turns I remove more of the paper backing and continue until I reach the end. The end of the film is taped on to the paper backing. Carefully remove the film and fold the tape over onto the film. Continue twisting the reel until the end has passed through the initial guides. I like to fold the tape onto the film because it later provides more grip for hanging the film to dry.

The key to all of this is the initial placement of the film onto the reel. If you do this correctly then the whole process should take just a few minutes.